good evening. gosh, i’m surfed out, dived out, and totally burnt out…. need to take a break today so carter picked me up and we went to hang out. drove around until we landed at this secluded beach….
there were whales jumping all over, turtles on the beach and in the water, and white sand loaded with shells…. not to mention, perfect waves with nobody around for miles and miles….
there were these kids on the rocks feeding seaweed to the turtles. when we got there, there were 8 turtles swimming around. such a cool place to spend a day off…..
then i ate a whole huli huli chicken. came back home, and lights out…. thanks carter for driving today. it felt good to be in the passenger seat for once….
when we were diving for ono’s yesterday. there were so many “lai” swimming around. pretty big ones. i wanted to bring home something so i speared a couple. james told me it’s good sashimi so that’s what i ate tonight. and yes, it wasn’t just good, it was great….. perfect surf and perfect weather this whole week. i’m going back to the office tomorrow early morning. see you in the barrel…. goodnight….
