good morning. 5:30am and seems like there’s still some waves on the north shore. it’s still to dark to see the size but i can see some white wash so i’m guessing 3′? town looks like there are some small ones too. supposed to pick up through out the day. light winds making for perfect conditions. surf? dive? i’m going surfing. have a nice day….
so there it was, sitting in my garage for 2 months. glenn minami shaped me this 5’10 swallow tail a while ago and when i picked it up, i put it on the side. didn’t think i would need it for this winter because i was planning on only surfing big waves. this board is made for small waves but something got me to grab it out and get it ready. what was it? might sound funny but it was kelly slater riding his 5’10 swallow tail in the snapper rocks contest surfing like superman. i got a glance of his board when i was watching it live and it looked something like this. so my sponsors stickers are on, it’s waxed up, and ready to go. just waiting for the waves to drop a little because i don’t want to break this baby. today is the day….
i even dug out the kelly slater fins out of my garage. why not???? haha…. i can’t wait to try my new toy….. but first, i will go shave my head and put on my white wetsuit… then drive down to the beach with pamela anderson on my side… haha… see you in the water….
