Give and Give!

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i switched on the cam today to check Waimea Bay. OMG! i was shocked to see a boat and jet ski in the channel. this is illegal in hawaii. no jet ski or no boats are allowed near surfers or swimmers. and the last big swell i surfing pipeline, there were 4 jet skis in the channel and it was very dangerous. heard the DNLR has been getting a lot of complaints and are going to start giving tickets. i hope so before somebody gets hurt.
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i went to drop off the kids iphone today and his father gave me some beers and cokes. i told him no need but he insisted. thanks Ben!
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i’ve been giving fish to the homeless who live on beaches around hawaii ever since i started diving. they are always very thankful. today, one of the homeless guys walked up to me and said “hey kirby, here’s some poi.” what? i said no need. he said “just take it, it’s to say thank you for always bringing fish to us.” i was speechless! i accepted it, i was super happy, and i ate it last night. poi is very expensive in hawaii and the guy gave it to me from his heart. that’s the aloha of this beautiful island.
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Cambodia was always a place i wanted to visit for years. i haven’t been there before but was always fascinated with the amazing temples. then once my brother moved there last year, it jumped to the top of my list. i leave today and will arrive there tomorrow. i’m looking forward to exploring an amazing country, hang out with my brother, and visit all of the kids at the orphanage he’s teaching at. can’t wait. see you soon bro!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide