good evening. wow, 3 awesome days this week at backdoor/pipeline. it’s already better than the whole last year winter season. i walked through the sand path to check the waves and as soon as i got to the beach, i seen a 8′ solid A-frame backdoor/pipe set that peeled like a oil painting. i stood there for 2 seconds in awe, turned around, and ran to my car to grab my board. i was so excited that i tripped and fell in the sand. good thing only 2 people saw. it was funny but i didn’t even have time to laugh. i just wanted to SURF!!!! i jumped in the water and ended up surfing for over 4 hours.
it was packed! lots of the locals were out including pros like joel parkinson, taj burrow, dean morrison, and many others. i was hard to get a wave but i didn’t give up. i waited and waited. if it came, good. if not, there’s always tomorrow. luckily for me, at 11:45, this perfect 6′ solid backdoor set came right to me. i turned around, took off, bottom turned, and got a huge barrel. it’s by far my best barrel of the year so far. i was so happy driving back to town… it was a great day and tomorrow, i’m taking the day off. stay home and watch a DVD.
check out this video i shot in like 30 minutes. i drowned 3 waterproof cameras already and if somebody wants to sponsor me more cameras, i’ll promote them in the best way possible. i can’t afford buying a new waterproof camera every week. i don’t make a penny off my videos and i never wanted to. i just shoot because i love shooting and showing the world the wonderful job i have. when this camera drowns, i’m done… haha…
