good morning. 5 am and guess what? the waves are small around the island so i’m going diving!! yeah!!! i’m so happy!!! we’re going blue water so stay tuned for video later… have a wonderful day!!!
**i was talking to a surfer friend yesterday that makes a living off surfing. we felt the exact same way on how it’s so fortunate to have a job you love. and it’s so fortunate to have a job that keeps you healthy. the ocean is our medicine and without it, we wouldn’t be the same…
some days it’s fun in the sun. and some days, it’s not. imagine pulling up to pipeline early in the morning. the waves are huge and dangerous. you look at the lineup and there’s 60 guys fighting for the wave of their life. you grab your board, you stand on the edge of the water looking at 30′ faces crashing down 100′ in front of you. you jump in, the current takes you down the beach like a raging river. if your lucky, you will get out without a wave breaking on your head. and that’s seldom. if your unlucky, you won’t make it out and have to come back to the beach, walk back in front of hundreds of people a little embarrassed, and try again. you can break a board, you can break a leash, or you can never make it out. i’ve seen it all happen before. and get this…. this is the easy part….
and once you get out, you have to deal with the most aggressive crowd in the world. getting a wave at pipe/backdoor is a game. you have to play your cards right. it’s the hardest place in the world to catch a set. sometimes you do, sometimes you don’t. every hungry pro surfer from around the world, along with hawaiian locals want what you want. there’s fights, there’s heavy wipeouts, and there’s even death. this is my office. and when people tell me i have an easy job, i just don’t know what to say anymore. maybe if they came with me to my office someday, they would give my job a little more respect. putting your life on the line everyday isn’t fun. well, i’ll take that back. it is fun…. without risks, there’s no rewards. and there’s no bigger reward than getting a huge barrel on hawaii’s north shore….
