omg, what another long day. it’s 10:30pm now and i finally got to sit down and drink some water. i left early this morning and started by checking the waves, getting surfboards ready, washed the truck, visited my grandpa, surfed 2 points, bodysurfed the shorebreak, filmed for japanese tv, took film for tv, drove around, surfed again, shot video, open house, shoot photos, dinner, drinks, and about a hundred of phone calls, 50 emails, 300 texts, and my mind just going blank after a while. have you ever had your head overheat? well, i just did. now i’ll be up probably to midnight on my computer downloading and uploading footage from today. no, i’m not complaining, i’m just tripping out on myself. i don’t drink red bull and i don’t take hyper drugs. i’m just on a natural high. want to try to keep up with me? i’ll bet you can’t because i have a hard time keeping up with myself. and if i forgot to do things today, please forgive me.
every single morning i must see the ocean. why? because the ocean controls the rest of my day.
can you believe my grandpa is 95 years old!!! omg, his doctor told him that he’s a lot more healthy than most of his 50 year old patients. thanks for the big smile grandpa and for brightening up my day. people ask me why i work hard? my answer is because my grandparents did.
then Kyle texted me a photo this morning. wow! who is that? i don’t even remember this.
right when i woke up, i knew sandy beach was going to be good. perfect waves at half point, full point, and shorebreak. i surfed them all!
then a huge whale swam right on by as i was in the water. i dove under and could hear the whales voices. cool!
watched the sunset in town.
and watched my friends paddle out and surf. the funny thing is i could see them, but they couldn’t see me. here is waterman Keoni Watson.
such a cute photo. i hope this gets into Keoni’s hands somehow because photos like this are priceless.
and been getting emails all day of the snow in japan. all public transportation stopped! cool!
watched Kekoa Cazimero do some big power snaps. gosh, the waves were going off this evening!
then Randall Paulson with the big off the lip. Yuki-san took this photo as she’s getting very use to using the best camera and lens in the world. this is magazine quality!
tomorrow i have even a longer day planned. better get some sleep. goodnight.
