Shore Break to Reef Break

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i had fun bodysurfing sandy beach yesterday. check out this cool photo i shot in the barrel. when the producer asked me why i like it there so much, i told him “i use to ride bicycle here with my friends before school, after school, and sometimes during school. we hang out, we surf, we bodyboard, we bodysurf, we barbecue, we listen to music, and we have a great time. just too many memories at sandy beach for me. that’s why.”
photo 2
just another amazing view from an amazing condo. this is paradise baby!
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Inaida-san on his new board yesterday. looking sharp and looking young.
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we have conversations about board length, width, and thickness now days. and we both understand that a 1/4 inch or half a centimeter will change everything in a board. i’m super stoked to watch people transform into surfers. and once you do, you will never go back.
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and Yuki-san with the perfect cross step! omg, amazing progress.
our surfing days will continue. we will move forward, surf better, get healthier, and laugh more. that’s the perfect surfers lifestyle. cheers!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide