OMG, it was so great to see the blue sky again! gosh, it felt so good to soak up the sun all day long. surfed 4.5 hours and had another great day here in hawaii. today also is one of those days in my life i will never ever forget. why? because a new person came into my life today that inspired me a lot.
Yasuda-san is on his first trip to hawaii and i’m glad he called me. i wouldn’t want to miss an opportunity to meet such an amazing person like him. not only meet, but to surf together. from the time i picked him up, he was smiling the whole time. a kind man that loves to ride waves.
i was really nervous because i haven’t been in a situation like this before. to tell you the truth, i had no idea what as about to happen. and some of my surfer friends in the parking lot were also speechless.
but once Yasuda-san jumped off his wheelchair and hopped to the ocean, i knew today was going to be so special.
i was in awe watching him catch so many waves! a super good bodyboarder that just loves riding waves!
we scored rock piles because only a few surfers were out and it was by far the best spot today on the south shore. just super fun long rides.
Masako-san caught some really good waves too! nice photo!
and yes, i kept on looking up to the heavens above and telling myself “god is great!”
towards the end, everybody went in except us. it was a perfect hawaiian surfing day!
then we went to enjoy some pho for lunch.
i was truly inspired today by Yasuda-san. very soft spoken, very calm, very confident, and very nice. some people paddled up to me and said “wow, he is amazing!” i told them “yes he is.”
Yasuda-san, You really inspired me today. I was really happy to share waves together with you and Masako-san. Thank goodness it was a perfect blue warm day in paradise. I hope you enjoy the rest of your trip in Hawaii! Enjoy the weather, enjoy the waves, and enjoy the Aloha! I’m sure you have touched so many other peoples hearts just like how you touched mine. I’m looking forward to seeing you again. Keep on surfing and keep on smiling! Aloha.
