Jack Johnson: Breakdown….

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good morning. 6:20am aloha friday. waves way down on the north shore. maybe 3′ with nobody out at pipe. swell looks really north so lani’s must be the spot. town has some small ones. chest high at ala moana. 8 guys out at the park, 3 guys out at rockpiles, and 6 guys out at the bowl. the winds are blowing strong trades so got some morning sickness conditions around the island. i’m going surfing… have a nice day….
**hey guys, it’s the first time in 12 years when the dollar went below 100 yen. it’s a time for you japanese to buy dollars now. don’t miss this chance. and it’s a time for people in america to wait a while if they are thinking about going to japan. unless your filthy rich. i remember the last time i the dollar fell below 100 yen. it was back in 1995 when we just got off a boat in indonesia. it was front page headlines in bali then and it’s making front page headlines in america now. i’m changing some yen right now…. if you have some, you should too….

got these photos from craig sako out in millilani. what started out as wild pigs wondering in his back yard turned into wild pigs being his pets. craig, did you know that black wild pigs or “kurobuta” are the best eating???

and craig, did you know i tried black wild pig raw liver before and it tasted unreal? better keep those healthy juicy pigs away from my friends…. hide them in your room.. haha….

and craig, did you know that i would love to eat this fish? fresh oio fishcakes. ummmm. let me know when i can pick it up… haha…
***now to leave you off with a clip of jack johnson’s breakdown. watch good because that’s jack surfing in there too. yeah, jack johnson rips….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide