Hawaii's Summer's Here???

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good evening. gosh, what a beautiful day today. the tradewinds are back in full force making our skies deep blue. there was some waves in town today. surfed bowls for 3 hours this morning. i counted 28 guys out at 10am and that’s only at bowls. it was crowded but plenty of fun waves for everybody. i was surfing the rights and kind of dropping in so sorry guys. i had my 5’10 and i was having fun….

look how nice it was at the beach. canoes, coconut trees, blue sky, clean water, and fun waves. gosh, is this the start of summer already? heard some bigger south swells on the way.. yeah!!!

there use to be a lunch wagon in the parking lot in the old daiei near ala moana that had the best plate lunches. steak rolls with garlic or wasabi. i use to go there all the time. well, the wagon is gone but found out that they opened a restaurant near by. right across the street of palama market to be exact. i ate there yesterday and oh my gosh… so good. this is the 10oz. rib eye steak with garlic on top. $10 is a deal….. but my breath still stinks from eating all that garlic….

i gave my friend brandon 3 big awe’o weo’s i speared the other day. he told me that he’s going to sashimi one, and make soup with the other two. it sounded so good that i wanted to take back the fish and do the same thing. haha…

i speared this mu the other day too. these fish are the hardest fish to spear. they stay far away from you so you have to stay down for a long time to catch these. i mean a loooong time. i was so happy to spear this one and there is no way in the world i would give a mu away. to me, this is the best eating fish. steamed=awesome. deep fried=awesome. nitsuke=awesome. sashimi=broke da mouth…..

and last, after 20 years of the same stove. i finally went down to get a new one yesterday. this is the newest type and hope it lasts another good 20 years of good cooking….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide