Two Precious Photos….

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good morning. 7am saturday morning. small waves around the island. north shore only breaking only at the spots that catch the north swells. pipe missing and is flat with nobody out. town is waist high and kind of morning sickness. wait till about 9am to go surf because every where should be cleaning up. in america, we’re so lucky that every year, we have to do our taxes. that’s what i’m doing now. i love paying our government taxes so they can cut down trees on the likelike highway to make it look beautiful. then i love when a tree falls on somebody’s window and cracks it causing $400 in damage. and i especially love it when they turn the other way when that happens….. it’s a lose lose situation for some of us…. but life goes on…. have a nice day…
**i was looking through my photo library and came across these 2 photos. oh, so precious…..

this is seth moniz when he was 8. i just got my new canon lens that day so i wanted to use it. i called up the moniz’s, headed to waikiki, borrowed a longboard, sat back and snapped away. most of my photos were out of focus but this one was as sharp as can be. so sharp that you can see seth’s bricks on his stomach. imagine being 8 years old and throwing out the fins like this? and imagine your uncle sitting in the channel taking your photo yelling “do something”. i still do that…

and this is another precious photo. kelia and alyssa. two cute funny girls on their way to bright futures…. gosh, this photo cracks me up. i said cheese and i got a lot of cheese……..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide