Somebody's Fall is another Person's Rise….

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good evening. another windy day today. well, i shouldn’t say windy. it’s just another ordinary day here in hawaii. sunny skies with cool tradewinds. it’s spring and usually the trades blow everyday so it’s normal. just checked the forecast. north and south swells on the way with trade wind weather. so if your waiting for those glassy epic sunny mornings, forget it. you missed it. i think my winter north shore season is done. got tons of good waves and good barrels. enough to last me for a lifetime. going to put my guns away, get out my small boards, and have fun surfs. not dangerous big barreling waves over shallow reefs. i’m going to miss going to the north in the early mornings. miss the big waves, miss the barrels, and miss the photos. the only thing i won’t miss is filling my tank up 3x a week. my passport’s on the way and as soon as i get it, i’m out of here. hope to get good waves traveling around the world along with good experiences…. the journey continues….

last week, there was this big sex scandal. the governor of new york got busted for spending over $15,000 on a call girl, or better known as a prostitute. the outcome? the governor quit his job. well, he had too. nobody could get away with this kind of thing unless your president clinton. haha… so as the governor’s career comes to an end, we now have this famous prostitute girl’s career on the rise. i don’t even want to know her name and really don’t care. all i care about is that so many people in this world have to work so hard on their careers to make it. but now days, all you have to do is screw a famous person and you’ll be famous instantly. something’s wrong with this world. and it’s pretty dam sad. what message are we sending to our youth????

and last, check out this old school ambulance that probably transported thousands to the hospitals in the old days in hawaii. what an antique…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide