what another long amazing day. i left early in the morning and got home late in the evening. surfed for 6 hours and feeling super satisfied. i feel like drinking a beer and going to sleep but i don’t drink beer at home so i will just go to sleep.
today was another tricky day for getting good waves. luckily the onshore winds and clouds keep most surfers at work or at home. i surfed 2 rounds at bowls and when we paddled out, nobody was out. only us and the whole ocean.
i had a great time this morning with Mukaitsubo-san. a very soft spoken hard core surfer. he got hooked 20 years ago and now he’s surfing super good. today was hard enough to even catch a good wave but Mukaitsubo-san caught more than a few good ones. we have a lot in common as we were talking about checking the surf report even though we know we can’t go surfing. haha. if the waves are good and we have to work, it hurts really bad. yes it does.
then i went surfing with Saito-san this afternoon. i was stoked to see him take his first cross step. another great surfer and very kind person. i meet the most wonderful people every single day and i’m so lucky to see big smiles all day long!
my niece came to drop off some cupcakes she made. i ate one and it was very delicious! thank you Temari!
and guess what? my chickens started laying eggs again! they stopped for 3 weeks and now they are pumping them out daily again. i can’t wait to get back to my natto, raw egg, and hot rice breakfast from tomorrow!
huge swell still coming sunday but bad winds. if you look good enough, you will find perfection. i already know where will be going off! keeping it a secret! good night.
