Heaven can wait

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did you hear about the elderly man that died in the hospital? the doctors pronounced him dead. they put him in a body bag. and later he woke up and said “let me out!” OMG! that’s crazy!
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so happy to see the walls up on Davis’s house in cambodia.
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i took this photo a while back of my friend Pakana after he speared this monster moana kali. this was at one of my secret spots near kewalo’s. now i feel like diving because i’m getting hungry for steamed fish.
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ok, i just got invited on a boat trip. a boat trip i’ve been longing to go on. not the mentawai’s, not the philippines, but somewhere far more remote. i’ve been there once in my life and the waves weren’t the greatest that time. so this time, i’m expecting better waves as we search for big barrels. i can’t wait!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide