it’s so weird how i feel about surfing recently. i use to be so happy to get big barrels and sad when i couldn’t. now, i feel happy just to ride a wave. on any board, just riding a wave is so fun. and when you ride waves with friends, it doesn’t matter to me anymore. so after getting barreled at backdoor yesterday, i paddled out on a longboard to bowls. the waves were good, not too crowded, sunny, and just pure fun!
and to share surfing with people who never surfed before and to see them transforming into surfers is awesome. the body, mind, soul, and smile is totally different in and out of the water. surfing is just so amazing.
Inaida-san’s been surfing really good recently. just so much more confidence in the ocean than before. he knows the tides, currents, winds, swell direction, and a lot more. my goal is to get Inaida-san in the barrel!
and Yuki-san taking steps. everybody who sees her surfing tells me “wow, she got really good so fast!” yeah, i know.
happy smile!
then Katsura-san’s been surfing so good too. just super energetic and very happy. always a good vibe. and the past 2 nights Katsura-san worked on my shoulders. now i feel much more better. magic hands!
like i said, i’m happy surfing a short board in a huge barrel, or happy surfing a long board on a chest high wave. getting older has taught me that the most important thing is to enjoy what you have. i really appreciate having good boards, good waves, and good friends.
