good morning. 7am tuesday morning. looking at pipe/backdoor now and it looks good. 3-4′ and some pretty good barrels. the conditions cleaned up and i might have to go out there to get my last barrel of the year. got so many things to do in town today but one barrel will make my day. ummmm… town is waist high with a little bigger sets. contest going on at kewalo’s again today. the finals are on!! i heard my niece and nephews are surfing really good. micah, kelia, isaiah, joshua, and seth stayed at the billabong house this year on the north shore and it’s paying off. seth went out in his first heat and kicked ass. he had 2 perfect 10 point rides. finals start at 10am so go down and support our local amateurs. i’m still stuck in the middle of town or country. going to make some calls…. have a nice day….
recognize this doggy? this is one of the most famous dogs in the world. he’s the doggy star on the drama “lost”. pono lives next to me and is one of the smartest dogs i’ve ever seen. i went outside yesterday morning and he showed me how smart he is. i asked him what 5 plus 2 was, he barked 7 times. then i asked him what 3 plus 5 was and he barked 8 times. i was tripping out. gosh, the dogs smarter than me. i see pono everyday and just found out yesterday that he’s the dog on lost. gee, i should take some time and watch that drama….
pono just had pups. want to buy one? full bread labrador/retriever at $2000/each. these pups will be gone fast so here’s your chance. cute little things….
i would love to have one. he can do my taxes for me…. haha….
**a 23 year old bodyboarder died yesterday at pipeline 2 days ago. he hit his head on the reef and died at kahuku hostpial. he surfed pipeline for the past 2 weeks every single day. this kid was too young…. be careful and be happy because your life could end in a flash….
