good evening. it’s pretty hard predicting the size of north direction swells because it passes by buoy 1 and sneaks in. i was confused so i left early this morning to see for myself. i knew exactly where to check but didn’t know where to surf. laniakea? log cabins? rockpiles? or sunset?
no, this is not pipeline/backdoor. this is log cabins this morning. i pulled up and it was going off! i seen 6 photographers setting up before light so i knew that this is the spot today. should i grab my board? wait, what about sunset???? i better check…
i pull up to sunset and seen 6 perfect barrels. i grab my longest board and paddle out. why? because kinsan was getting ready to shoot, and i wanted a big barrel. both part of my job….
wow, japanese on the north shore? i was stoked to see these guys. joe tanaka and arashi kato at sunset beach…
kinsan and hiro-san checking the conditions. i can’t believe how quiet sunset beach was today. there was absolutely no traveling pro surfers out. i was pretty lucky. i went out, waited, waited, waited. got a nice barrel, and that was enough. what an awesome day…
then i drove by the packed pipe masters and for some reason, a parking spot right in front of backdoor was open. i took it, and i took this photo of shane dorian…
i can’t wait till tomorrow….
