5 Years of War…

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good morning. 7:15am thursday morning. waves on the north shore done…. looks super small up there and i think our winter season is pretty much over. gosh, how fast… town has some small waves. waist/chest high at bowls. got a bunch of surfers out there and quite a few out at the park. the tide is very very low so please be careful. i’m going surfing. got to practice for some small japan waves. i didn’t realize how much work and energy it takes to surf small waves. after i caught a long left yesterday at bowls, i was tired. i think i got spoiled taking off and just pulling into perfect barrels. that’s not good. well, it’s good but i better practice or i will look like a kook when i go to japan. haha… i’m going surfing. have a nice day….
can you believe that the iraq war was already going on for 5 years? and is there an end in sight?? no. no. no…. something is freaking wrong. what’s the problem? i want to know… after 600 billion dollars spent, almost 4,000 americans dead, how long more will this go on? i forgot why we’re even fighting and who we’re fighting. all i know is that young soldiers are dying everyday and when there’s no sign of the end, it’s pretty depressing. obama said that if he becomes president of the america, he’s pulling the troops out within 6 months. now you know who i’m voting for…..
**please watch this video of the fallen soldiers that have sacrificed their lives for the freedom we have. pretty touching. song by tim mcgraw called “if your reading this”….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide