Surfer Girls Japan: Kelia Moniz…..

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good evening. gosh, it was such a beautiful day here in hawaii. kind of windy but the waves were super fun….

pulled up to bowls this morning and was greeted by this rainbow. and it was still there when we paddled out to the lineup. the waves were chest high and super fun. i got a couple sick long perfect lefts. thanks for those waves reid…. ended up surfing for almost 3 hours with banno-san and asaki-san. it was a great session….

after we got out of the water, we went to check out kalua…. here is asaki-san and banno-san petting kalua….

kalua loves when people cool him off with water. he was such a happy pig today. banno-san was telling me this morning that i have a good life. i agree. but i think kalua has a better life. eat, sleep, eat, sleep…. can’t beat that…

this was one of the last waves of the year for me on the north shore. kenji sent this to me and i think he took it last week sometime. gosh, from the worst winter ever in history to the best winter ever in history. i’m glad i was here for both sides because when the good came, good things happened…. thanks kenji for always taking my photo….. your the man….

wow, check out the new surfer girls magazine that just went on sale last week. kelia moniz cover shot!! yeah sis….
CLICK HERE FOR THE LINK TO SURFER GIRLS….

**and last, check out this funny photo i got in an email. what the heck is this??? if i had a chest like this, i wouldn’t mind because i would have a place to rest my chin to take a nap… free pillows…. haha….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide