good evening. i passed by bowls this morning and to my surprise….. there were waves!!! a new solid south/west swell. score!!!
before i even took the turn to diamond head, i already knew it was going to be perfect. solid 3′ and as good as it gets. this swell caught me by surprise and i’m sure it did to many others because usually there would be 100 surfers out. today, there were only 50. i had a meeting at 1pm that i cancelled because i wanted to surf diamond so bad. so i cancelled and surfed diamond head…
i want to welcome barrels/tssc/dove rider masaki and family to hawaii for the first time. i’m sure the will love it here!!! the waves and weather are going to be perfect this week!!! great timing.
and wanted also to thank the masaki family for bringing me these awesome gifts. i already ate mentaiko for lunch today and the tea will be chilled for my morning drink.
tomorrow i want to wish all the marathon runners the best of luck. for me, i’m dawn patroling somewhere. somewhere? yeah, somewhere. i know everywhere will be good but somewhere will be better. i will be at that somewhere. get it? have a wonderful evening….
