the waves at pipeline went to sleep. it’s been looking like a desert out there. nobody on the beach. i shot this photo yesterday morning and the 2 people sitting on the beach is my sister and her friend. pretty sad…. as i was surfing epic bowls this morning, i thought of something. why don’t they move the pipe masters to bowls? the waves are better, and if they do, there will be 10 x as many people watching it. great idea yeah? it’s december and when the south shore is bigger than the north shore, something is wrong. as for me, i love it because i save a lot of gas. tomorrow? surf town!!! see you out there….
i email matchi 3 weeks ago explaining that seth needs some guns for pipeline/backdoor. i get the green light from yassan at tssc. barrels team rider masaki comes from japan 2 days ago and delivers the boards to me. i drive out to the north shore and deliver the boards to seth. it’s called teamwork at its finest…. thank you to everybody that is involved. when seth pulls into 10′ barrel with one of these boards, you can all give yourselves a pat on the back. i’ll let you know when it happens…. thanks again…
this is barrels team rider masaki. his first time to hawaii. his first surf today. i took him to bowls and the waves were going off! he kept on saying “saiko!!!” whicy means “awesome!!!” masaki came at the perfect time because the waves will be good all week long. sunny and light offshore winds everywhere!!!
