Lost Again…..

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good morning. 6:15 aloha good friday. today is good friday and a holiday in hawaii. easter sunday coming up this weekend. hope to find some eggs. i remember when i was a kid, we use to go to my grandma’s house and color eggs. then she use to hide it in her back yard. my brothers and sister and i use to run in the yard and see who could find the most eggs. then eat it after. those were the days. i wish i can be a kid again. i might still act like one but i miss the kids things. like waiting for santa clause on christmas eve, and waiting for the tooth fairy when your first tooth fell out. ahhhhh….. anyway, the waves are pretty much flat everywhere today. don’t even see a wave breaking at pipe now. good for diving…. town came down too. the park’s knee/waist high with 12 guys and 2 stand up paddlers out. 5 guys out at rockpiles and 9 guys out at bowls. gosh, i want to surf so bad today but don’t know where to go. oh wait, i just seen a chest high set at bowls. i guess i know where i’m going today. see you in the water….

i was super hungry the other day and i forgot to bring money with me. i was looking for some free food and remembered where i could find some. that’s right, the leftovers from the lost crew. i ate some chili beans with mushrooms on the side. gosh, it was pretty good……

then after i ate all that food. i needed a place to rest so i headed in one of the tents and took a nap on the airplane seat. now when i see it on tv, i can say that i took a nap there…. haha…

and you better stay away or you will find yourself in jail. i went to city mill and bought this sign to put in the sand so nobody else comes. only i’m invited here and like to come here when i’m feeling a little “LOST”… get it? haha….
**by the way, been getting a lot of emails about the lost set and the lost dog. for some people, i guess it’s a big deal. but for me, i really don’t care because i don’t watch lost. never did and probably never will. why watch lost when i’m already lost? gosh, i’m feeling funny this morning.. haha….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide