good evening. what a nice day it was today. surfed kewalo’s this morning with chigasaki’s seiji-san from the hawaiian band ‘Ika’ika”. we checked bowls, there were 20+ guys out and the waves were waist high and inconsistent. no way… drove over to kewalo’s and as soon as we pulled up, we seen some shoulder high super fun waves with only 6 guys out. that was the call. while i was surfing i seen this 13 year old or so kid ripping. never seen him out there before so i started talking to him. he was super friendly and told me he’s from the west side. i told him that the waves weren’t that good today compared to what we’ve been getting. then you know what he told me? he said “but this is better than nothing”….. gosh, i was surprised. what a good attitude.. that made me really happy and made me enjoy surfing small waves a lot more than i have been. seen yukiko out too. she’s going to japan this year to do the jpsa contests. watch out girls, yukiko rips…. while i was surfing, i was looking out at the dive boats passing by. made me want to dive. and that’s what i’ll be doing tomorrow…..
brandon called me the other day because he seen a big wild boar coming around. he told me to meet him up in the mountain because he had a feeling it was coming back. i hurried up there and as soon as i pulled up, the big black boar was there. brandon got his bow out and i got my cell. phone video cam ready. i shot the whole thing in video. including the kill shot. it was pretty nuts. the boar ran down the mountain and died around 30 minutes away. brandon went to find it and couldn’t carry it back up by himself. it was too heavy. so i had to climb down the mountain with my nice shorts, nice shirt, and slippers to help him carry it back up. well, drag it back up. it was pretty nuts and as soon as i have some time, i will post it on a video. but it might not be for everybody…..
the boar looks pretty small in this photo but it weighed over 150lbs. brandon cut it up and the meat is ready to go into the smoker this weekend. i’ll tell you how the smoked pork tastes….. ummmm…..
as we were just going to delete some galleries off the go-naminori website, this order came in. when i pulled up the photo, i couldn’t believe it. i couldn’t believe that this guy almost lost his chance of buying one of the sickest big wave photos i’ve ever seen. this is taken on an outer reef in hawaii in january 2007. a photo like this is priceless. i would kick myself in the ass if i gave up an opportunity like this. better go check if you have a photo on there too or it will be deleted forever. so when your 80 years old and sitting on your porch drinking a beer with the boys, you have proof. and you’ll be the man for sure…. find it on GO-NAMINORI.COM.
and last, i know who this is…. i see her all the time at pipe. do you know her? haha… i’m just joking… i just think it’s a pretty cool body board chick photo. i borrowed it off the transworld surf website. have a great evening…
