good morning. 5:30am saturday morning. waves flat on the north shore and small in town. i’m taking a break and going diving. have a nice day…
***the young 23 year old bodyboarder that died surfing pipe’s name was joshua nakata. joshua from mililani passed away last sunday at the deadliest spot in the world, pipeline. he was paddling back out to the lineup on a 8′ day and got caught in the inside by a set. the wave broke in front of him and when he tried to go under it, the force drove him down to the reef. eventually hitting his head. that’s pretty scary. pipeline has claimed experienced surfers almost every year now. it feels so weird because i surf there almost everyday when it’s good. i usually go backdoor, which is even shallower than pipe. after this kids death, it made me think a lot. made me think about how dangerous my job is. made me think about my life. made me think about the price surfers pay for the ultimate ride. surfing is a very dangerous sport. you don’t see football players dying on the field, you don’t see baseball players dying heading to home plate, and you don’t see soccer players dying running across the field. maybe i’m freaking out a little but when ever a surfer dies, i feel it. and i’m feeling it right now…. so all you surfers out there, surf safe, enjoy life, be happy, and watch over each other…..
this wave might look perfect but for those of you who don’t know, there is only a few feet of water under that wave…. the most deadliest surf spot in the world? for sure….
**by the way, not only did young body boarder joshua pass away last weekend. a diver, kayaker, and wind surfer also passed away the same weekend….
and last, wanted to thank shuji, mito, and mito’s mom for such an awesome time last night. good food, good view, and good friends. can’t beat that…. and yes, i did wake up and am going diving. i wasn’t trying to run away…. and thanks reid and yuko for following me home. or letting me follow you home. next time, please pick me up when we go out. haha.. doomo arigato gozimashita. from kirby and jacksan….
