good evening. heavy rain and cloudy but so what? nothing can stop us surfers from surfing right? wrong! hayasaka-san, the moniz kids, and i paddle out to rocky rights this morning. it was raining and i could see even darker clouds approaching. we’re in the water talking about lightning. josh had his gold chain on so i told him to be careful. he said “if lightning hits me, it hits me.” i thought it was a little sassy but what do you expect out of 14 year old kid. 10 seconds later, a huge lightning bolt breaks into the water right in front of us. we all turn in and paddle in. guess who gets in first? yes, josh…..
it’s unheard of getting hit by lightning in hawaii. probably never ever happened to a surfer. in japan? it happens all the time!!! surfers die and it’s no joke. i don’t care how good the waves are. if there is a shark or angry local, i still surf. but if there is lighting, i get my ass out of the water….
there i was standing outside my car getting ready to change into my trunks. then this bus comes by and sprays me with muddy water. that sucked man. my favorite spice shorts are ruined…..
i had a great time surfing with hayasaka-san from sendai. a great surfer with lots of experience! check out our lunch. yummy….
i don’t know how to explain this? it’s cake, cookie, cream filling, snack? if i was to compare it to anything in hawaii, i’d compare it to a malasada. but 100x better! thanks hayasaka-san!!!
