i was driving to the beach early this morning and seen something i see all the time. a super drunk man sleeping on the side of the street near the ala wai canal. it kind of reminded me of my college days. haha. i’m just glad i finally grew up.
wow, i had an amazing day with this super woman! Nishio-san came to hawaii for the honolulu triathlon. she completed it 2 days ago. today we surfed all day long, 5.5 hours to be exact. it’s her first time surfing and she stood up from the very first wave to the last. total of 50 plus waves ridden today, paddled out by herself, turned, and even caught waves by herself. i couldn’t believe how much energy she had!!! then come to find out, Nishio-san couldn’t even swim 2 years ago. so she learned in a pool, and swam the triathlon part in the ocean. it was her first time ever swimming in the ocean!! omg!!! but she put her fears aside and completed the race. i was amazed!!! then i found out that she has 2 kids age 20 and 15. omg! super energetic mom!!! i ask her what’s next? she said “skydiving!” today was a very inspiring day for me! i’m going to stop taking my afternoon naps. haha.
between surfs, we went to visit nature. and nature as always was very peaceful and beautiful. the smell, the breeze, and the birds singing. totally different than the ocean.
i just had to get a panorama shot of this amazing power spot.
then like every afternoon for the past 3 days, it rained. no wind today, cloudy sky, hazy vog, and the water got colder all of a sudden. it feels like winter and it’s going to be like this for the next week or so.
super burnt from today. i’m so surprised how long we surfed today. i had a great time and after watching the progress and smiles, i know i have the best job in the world. good night and see you in the water tomorrow morning at 5:30am because i’m surfing all day! the south swell continues for the next week! yeah!!!
