omg, did you feel the heavy rain today? i surfed 2 rounds in the heavy rain. i love it because it’s uncrowded, cool, and no sunburn. ran off to my secret spot and surfed head high waves with only 3 other surfers out on this stormy saturday. as for tomorrow, more rain, more heavy, and more wet. south swell coming up tomorrow, trade winds back on monday, and lots of work coming up.
was super happy to see my friend Kimo Gasper paddling out the other day. Kimo and I use to surf amateur contests together back in the 1980’s. we were also both on the hawaiian world team that competed in japan in 1990. a lot of good memories with this cool guy.
was paddling out to bowls on one of the bigger mornings and was super stoked to see my nephew Isaiah Moniz out there before me. and was more stoked to see him getting barreled!!!
wanted to say hello and thank you to Saiki-san and Torimoto-san! peace!
and wanted to say hello and thank you to Takagaki-san and Kiyomi-san! had a great time surfing with you!
and wanted to say hello and thank you to Yamamoto-san! shaka brah! keep on surfing and hope to see you all again!
waking up early tomorrow morning and surfing all day again! good night and see you in the water!
