like every morning, i drove by diamond head yesterday to check the waves. down from the day before, little wind already on the wave, and super crowded. new swell sunday peaking on monday as finally the trade winds will be back. expect epic surf all day long starting from monday.
there’s always a first time for everything right? i was stoked when i picked up Keyaki-san and seen her in her yukata. i love japanese culture!
and yes, a beautiful photo before we start surfing! i thought women wearing a yukata were shy, quiet, and graceful. that was my image until Keyaki-san took it off and started surfing! first time touching a surfboard and i couldn’t believe she stood up on her first wave and every wave after that!!! come to find out, Keyaki-san runs the 100km (62mi.) marathons! runs in the mountains, 350 scuba dives around the world, and is in top shape! so much energy and so much fun. we even went snorkeling in the afternoon and had a great time!
i still can’t believe how great her balance was, and how energetic she was all day long.
yes, the most beautiful smiles come out after riding a great wave.
perfect stance, perfect bending the knees, and perfect looking forward. the keys to great surfing.
a big teddy’s cheese burger for lunch. thank you Keyaki-san for a wonderful day!
