Local Motion Surf into Summer

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a lot of japanese people ask me if we have typhoons in hawaii. no we don’t. but, every 15 years or so, we get a hurricane. and when a hurricane hits hawaii, a lot of damage happens. we are in hurricane season now and look at Mrs. Amanda coming our way. it’s not forecasted to hit hawaii but it’s pretty scary being in the hurricane seasons path. remember hurricane Iwa? and hurricane Iniki? huge damage to our beautiful islands.
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yesterday we had another winter storm here. it’s a weird season now and these kind of storms aren’t supposed to happen. but hey, nobody can predict mother nature.
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water coming off the wall at my house means clean air, cool weather, and heavy rain. i love it!
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The Fujimoto-san family taught me where to buy huge live lobsters in hawaii. i was wondering how they ate it?
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well, now i know! they eat it sashimi!!! omg, looks so good! thank you for the photo Fujimoto-san!
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and yes, the finals for the local motion surf into summer are going on right now! i’m heading down to get some photos! see you down there!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide