i was checking out the forecast for this summer swells in hawaii last night. most of the top forecasters predicted a junk summer of small waves for hawaii. i was kind of bummed out. then i woke up this morning and paddled out to 2′ bowls. then it became 3′, then 4′. omg, a lucky south swell that wasn’t forecasted. it was empty in the morning and i caught so many good waves!!! super stoked! as for the rest of the summer, anything is fine. just give me any kind of wave and i’ll happily ride it till the end!
it was either surf or take the girls diving this morning. i woke up extra early so i could do both. after an awesome morning session, i picked up the girls for their weekly free dive course. the ocean was rough, the current was strong, and winds blowing hard. not a good day to go out on the boat or snorkel but my time is limited so we just go anyway. and after seeing a turtle come up to the boat and say hello to us, i told the girls to jump in. and they did just that.
i grab the gopro and take a photo of hawaiian underwater nature. this turtle came right up to me and smiled. it was so cool! as for the girls, they did a great job snorkeling and after week after week of practice, they will feel a lot more free in this beautiful natural aquarium.
Yuko-chan has been surfing good recently. bigger turns, bigger sprays, and bigger smiles. good job girl!
bowls was too crowded today so this afternoon i took Team Ina to my secret spot. i call it Tiger Point and today the name proved itself right. Yuki-san seen a 5M (15′) shark right in the lineup. we surfed anyway but i’d be lying if i wasn’t thinking of the shark attacking one of us.
head high sets and some nice barrels. on a sunday where bowls had over 50 surfers out and no parking, Tiger Point had nobody and lots of free parking. i couldn’t be a happier guy right now.
driving around in the ocean on Mayuki is good for the mind and soul. no traffic lights, no police, and no people. just us riding over the beautiful ocean. enough to bring out big smiles from Inaida-san and Yuki-san. tomorrow we keep on surfing and enjoying nature like we always do.
another long day in the ocean. totally sunburnt but totally satisfied. thank you for another wonderful day. good night
