ok, yesterday was amazing! just lucky all the time. we pulled up to the parking lot at 8:45am. usually the water is packed with hungry surfers that were waiting forever for this summer swell. bowls had 30 guys out. i look at rockpiles and seen nobody? what? i tell Takabayashi-san “hey, let’s go surf rockpiles. it is very low tide now so it’s very shallow. if you go straight and fall, you will die. so just get up and turn right!” he said “ok” and we went.
nobody out when we got out there. we surfed it perfect for 45 minutes. just perfect waves, no stress, and amazing rides. this was Takabayashi-san’s first wave.
ok, to paddle out to any spot on the island of oahu and surf it by yourselves is very rare. we kept on going wave after wave taking turns. it was sunny, the waves were off shore, and it couldn’t have been any better.
they call it Rockpiles because there are piles of rocks in the inside. imagine taking off, going full speed ahead, and running right into these rocks? itai!
after everybody seen us having so much fun, it got crowded. so i tell Takabayashi-san let’s go to Bowls. we paddle down and it was freaking perfect! here is Ronnie on a super good left.
Chuck Andrews on the take off. i’ve known Chuck for 30 years and he’s a very nice man. and a very reputable surfer/shaper from the East side of oahu.
how perfect were the waves today? OMG!!!!! i snapped this shot paddling out this afternoon with Gavin and Liam. it was a day when the 2 boys became 2 men. a big wave will change your life.
i seen this guy catch a really good wave. his name is Justin and i hope he gets this photo somehow.
there were a few freak sets that looked like mountains. imagine surfing for the 6th time in your life and have to paddle out a 11’0 surfboard through this? Gavin was right in the impact zone for 6 consecutive big waves. i was right on his side telling him not to panic. because if he did, he would drown.
look closely on the left side of this photo. no, that isn’t a turtle, that is Gavin. haha. after we finished surfing, i told their mother, “your 2 boys just became men today. congratulations.”
