good evening. well, the waves were big today but not big enough for the EDDIE AIKAU. i’d say 18′ sets at waimea bay with 40 guys out. i seen 6 guys on one wave. yeah, pretty crazy…. matchi and i ended up surfing 10 minutes away from my house. overhead and fun!!! there is a south swell in town along with the west swell wrap around. if you knew where to look, you could score.
now that this swell came and is on the way out, be prepared for the next one because it’s no joke. yeah, the next swell is supposed to peak on thursday and is predicted to get over 30′ hawaiian style. the biggest swell ever? i think so. i heard a rumor that it will even be too big for the Eddie Aikau contest. wow!!! stay tuned…
remember the needles and blood vials found on the west side beaches? yeah, at resort Ko Olina? this is what is what washed ashore on the beautiful white sand lagoons….
this too. i hope you stayed clear of the west side today. there was no way i was going out there….
tomorrow we’re expecting north winds. great for diving on the south shore. the question is: Is the water clean??? we’ll just have to wait and see…
