Surf, Fire, and Prime Rib….

264

good evening. on, off, on, off, on, off, on, on on!!! is it on or off? gosh, i’ve been hearing the talk of the eddie all week long. nobody will know until morning light breaks but here’s my forecast opinion. i think it will be too small! yes, too small for the eddie. maybe 20′ sets in the morning but it won’t last all day long. we’ll just have to wait and see and as soon as i find out, you’ll hear it from me! talked to wakita earlier and he doesn’t know either. check back tomorrow morning around 6:30 or so. but if you decide to drive out, be prepared for major traffic!!!
surfed 5 hours today. i’m surfed out! it was super sunny but freezing cold wind at the same time. Takagaki-san and i surfed, checked out the waikiki fire station, ate prime rib, and surfed again. what a great day!!! going to sleep good tonight….

wanted to thank nick mita for shooting me an email on who this guy is. his name is Yasunari Shimoda! thanks nick!

wanted to thank Miyo-san for this cool Hinano towel! i really like the hinano girl logo….

wanted to thank hayato for the goodies!!! umm….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide