good evening. want to check out my surf day in hawaii? it was long, but full of fun!! as i was driving back from the north shore, i was thinking to myself “does anybody move around this little island more than me? if so, i’d like to meet him.” you can call me crazy, or you can call me crazy…
in the morning, the waves on the north shore was really junky. and dirty water. so why go out there? yayoi, yuka, and i paddled out to bowls and surfed perfect clean water waves for 2.5 hours. a great session and a great way to start off the day. then we ate at romy’s shrimp on the north shore, a must! see the girl ripping in this photo? that is yoko. every time i see her surfing, her level is improving. i seen her do a backside snap today and actually seen the fins come out. good surfing yoko!!!
then we went to check sunset beach. solid 8-10 and looking really fun!!!
it was good to see the japanese kids out there and charging instead of staying home and playing with their DS game…
then we checked pipeline and i haven’t seen it this good since november…
i saw some incredible surfing and bodyboarding! naohisa ogawa got a 15′ wave and i got the sequence. stay tuned…
kekoa bacalso came out of the water and told me, “kirby, the waves are huge! it’s bigger than those coconut trees!” and the coconut trees he pointed to were 40′ tall….
then after watching heavy pipeline, we drove by waimea bay. this wave looked like queen’s. it’s crazy how one side of the island is like a fun day in paradise, while the other side is death defying….
a long day and lot’s of photos coming. too tired right now. have a good night….
