OMG! what an awesome day in hawaii! the first solid swell of the summer. i woke up early and watch the waves grow and grow by the minute. solid 5′ sets at bowls and other spots. i surfed 3 rounds and i couldn’t be any happier now. and i’m sure every surfer in hawaii is very happy tonight! cheers!
i took Hisako-san surfing this morning and it was a great day to challenge her skills. the waves were solid 4′ and strong! we got all the way to the outside and i was stoked to see her catching so many waves and riding perfectly! i’m sure her confidence level went way up.
then we went for lunch at Serg’s Mexican in Manoa. the best mexican on oahu!
order the enchilada plate with beef, green sauce, and a horchata on the side. all for $13.51 and you won’t be disappointed because that’s what i order every single time i go there.
then to wash the mexican down, we went to bubbies! the best ice cream on oahu!
Hisako-san ordered the lychee ice cream and i ordered the mochi ice.
on the left is vanilla, and on the right is peanut butter chocolate!
then went to pick up Team Ina and had very challenging afternoon surf. the waves got huge and i was surprised that they made it to the outside! great rides and everybody survived. good to see the happy smiles after everybody caught their biggest wave in their life today!
then it was getting late but i had 2 choices: one was to go home and take a nap. another one was to go for a surf and get barreled. i chose the second one and that was the right choice. another choice was to park the car and paddle out, or to jump on Mayuki and drive out. once again, i chose the second. i pulled up to see Glenn Matumoto and Kyle Nakamoto out. it was pretty much just us trading wave after wave. i got 2 barrels and i felt like i was in heaven. i’ll be sleeping tonight with a big smile on my face!!!
on the way back through the channel, i seen a guy getting a nice barrel at bowls! tomorrow this solid south swell continues. i’m out there again!!!!
then went with Team Ina for an awesome dinner. OMG! beer and sashimi!!! i was so happy because i was very very hungry.
then our dessert was chanko nabe. good surf and good food equals good life!
then checked the waves this evening. tomorrow i’m guessing similar to today and many many barrels! good night.
