yesterday was a great day of surfing for me. fujiki-san and i surfed epic velzyland in the morning, then good uncrowded laniakea in the afternoon. we both caught so many good waves and it felt good to ride a short board. and it felt good to take a break from the crowd, photographers, and hungry surfers at backdoor. yesterday was my reset day and today i’m back to backdoor all day catching all the waves i missed. barrel time!!!
fujiki-san is such a nice guy. very humble, very quite, and very stoked on surfing! when i see him catch a long wave, kick out and smile, i can feel the happiness too. makes me want to surf more, and makes me want to share more. surfing brings out the best in people and it sure brought out the best in fujiki-san. thank you to mr. and mrs. fujiki-san for the sake, rice, and birthday presents for kelia. she’ll be stoked for sure!!!
my new 5’9 matchi 4 fin was tested out yesterday at laniakea. fast, drive, and solid! all adds up to a magic board….
after a long day of surfing, the drive back to town is long, tiring, and dangerous. luckily i had fujiki-san to keep me company in a friendly conversation on the way home. then i saw kimura-san’s rent a car on the freeway. i pulled up to the side and seen naoka driving almost falling asleep, and kimura-san in the passenger seat knocked out cold. later that day, i called kimura-san to ask him how his nap in the car was. he told me he didn’t take a nap. hahah… photos don’t lie. here he is passed out cold!!!
around 1pm, we stopped by haleiwa to check the waves. it was 3-4′ and looking perfect! wanted to go out but decided to surf uncrowded laniakea. oh, i wanted to say hello to the 3 japanese surfers at haleiwa. thank you for checking out my blog. hope you guys had a fun session and hope you enjoy hawaii!!! see you in the water…..
