i had an awesome time with Jikou-san yesterday. Jikou-san is from wakayama, didn’t surf until only 4 years ago. moved to tokyo, met Matsuo-san at Rise and Shine, and his new life began. another example of never being too late to start surfing. welcome to our world!
before we paddled out, i asked Jikou-san what the biggest waves he’s been in before. he told me head high. i told him the waves were only chest to shoulder high because i didn’t want him to be nervous. well, i lied. it was overhead and he was charging! i’d say he caught over 20 waves and surfed so well.
such a nice guy with a nice background. Jikou-san knows so many people around me including Kimura-san, Naohiro, Ryosuke, Matsuo, Naoka, and more. super cool world to be in!
there is a right way to duck dive, and a wrong way to duck dive. yesterday, we learned the right way, which is to keep forward momentum and paddle straight into the wave. that way, you will keep going forward. if you stop and duck dive, you will get dragged backwards and end up using way more energy.
if you duck dive too soon, the wave will push you back. the key to a good duck dive is to wait until the last second to dive under the wave. that way the wave will push your ass down and bring you back up.
hold the rail and keep on forward momentum. great job Jikou-san!
how easy was that???? Jikou-san’s surfing went up a few levels yesterday. i was so stoked to see him enjoying the rides!
