had a great time this morning with Sasaki-san. a super cool hard core surfer from Ibaraki. we caught some good waves and had a great talk about things surfers talk about. for example, how Sasaki-san eats, sleeps, and dreams about surfing. on the way to work, he’s doing round house cutbacks on the sidewalks, and in the office, he’s doing off the lips on the walls. haha. i thought that was so funny because i use to do that all the time. when you’re hooked on surfing, that’s all you can think about.
the trade winds finally came back today and diamond head still looked fun. yesterday had a hundred surfers out, today only had 5.
then we picked up Sasaki-san’s lovely wife Mieko-san. ate a curry plate and drank a smoothie at The Spot. had another great talk. for example, we talked about how we love our surfboards more than women. haha. when i was younger, i use to sleep with my surfboard, put it up near the wall and stare at it, wax it gently, and wipe it down better than i wipe my butt. Sasaki-san is the exact same. haha.
do you know every since i started looking at diamond head about 30 years ago, it’s the greenest it’s ever been in the mid-summer. most tourist think diamond head is brown. but not this year, it’s as green as can be and i think it’s so freaking beautiful!
thank you Sasaki-san and Mieko-san for the udon and wonderful time.
also so happy that Hiyori-chan finally got her board!!! another tohoku surfer! awesome!! thank you Naomi-san for sending me this photo! i remember this backyard when i stayed over at your mom’s house. your dog kept on trying to bite me!!! haha.
i use Siri on my iphone a lot recently. obviously she doesn’t understand me. i asked Siri to “remind me to bring water and put it in my truck.” then she said “remind you to bring how old add water to fuck.” what??? pretty funny huh? haha.
by the way, wanted to say hello to Onosei-san and the surfer boys at Wedge Surf in ibaraki. keep on surfing!!!!
