Dive/Surf in Shizuoka….

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good evening everybody. gosh, what a super cool day it was today. the barrels clinic went off and so did the waves and competitors. the waves were perfect waist/chest high and everybody was surfing good. it’s cool to see the smiles on everybody’s faces and the stoke they have on surfing. i took some photos but too dam tired to even take the card out of my camera so your going to have to wait a few days. and yes, there was a huge barbecue after and that was super fun too. there’s been a barbecue almost every day here. last night, makaki made the meanest sashimi platter. ishidai, sazaie, and lobster sashimi. not too mention all the meat and stuff. my stomach if full, my body smells like a barbecue, and i’m tired. typhoon 9 is on the way and expect the waves to get huge real fast. maybe tomorrow? maybe the day after? but yes, it’s going to be big and epic. see you in the barrel…. goodnight….

oh, check out this cool looking house i seen in the country side. i wouldn’t mind living in one of these. must have some history. and probably some ghosts too yeah? never mind….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide