yesterday was a game changer. Nakamoto-san normally surfs at small isounora beach in japan. last year when he came to hawaii, i took him out to rock piles and it was shoulder high, the biggest he’s ever surfed. then yesterday, the waves were overhead and a totally new level. i could see him very nervous on the beach. i kept telling him, “it’s ok, you can do it. let’s go.” then after 3 times i said “let’s go”, he finally put on his leash. if anybody knows the feeling of fear before paddling out in big waves, it’s me. been there many times and if it wasn’t for all the people that encouraged me to challenge myself, i wouldn’t be the person i am today. i don’t just teach surfing, i teach people not to underestimate themselves.
so we paddle out in silence, and a lot slower than usual. that’s how i can tell someone is nervous. Nakamoto-san turns around half way and tries to paddle for a wave. i say “STOP!, paddle more out, paddle, paddle!!” gosh, i should have been an army sergeant. haha.
we start with the medium size waves to get the confidence going. so far, so good. then wave after wave, i kept on saying “ok, let’s go bigger!” by the end of the session, Nakamoto-san was riding head high waves and surfing it perfectly all the way in.
no nerves anymore, just a surfer filled with happiness and confidence. great job Nakamoto-san! take your confidence back to isounora and keep on charging!!!
i just transferred over to my computer 1,302 photos and 94 videos from my last trip. i was amazed on how many awesome photos there were. it’s going to take me a long time to go through them and sort things out, but i know i’ll have fun doing it. yeah, i can relive the experience again! check out this amasan, he’s 83 years old!!! very healthy, very happy, and very nice smile. and he can hold his breath longer than me. i realized more and more how the ocean can keep a person young in body, and young in heart. i’m pretty sure this grandpa will be diving into his 90’s and i’ll be back there over and over to check him out!
