OMG! i surfed for 6.5 hours today!!! i’m so black and sunburnt!!! caught over 40 waves, did 30 off the lips, 8 cutbacks, and lots of duck diving. the waves were absolutely perfect all day long!
surfed in the morning with Takei-san. he only has been surfing for 4 years but is hooked on it! he eats, sleeps, and dreams about surfing. such a cool guy! rode a shortboard and caught a lot of waves!
then we had lunch with his girlfriend Yuka-chan. i asked her “does Takei-san check the surf report everyday all day in japan?” she said “yes!! but i don’t understand why he checks the surf report even though he cannot surf that day?” i told her “only a surfer knows the feeling.” haha. it’s normal for surfers to check the reports even though they cannot surf. and if the waves are good, we suffer all day long at work. and if the waves are junk, we can work in peace.
ate the mixed plate at Diamond Head Grill. pretty good for $10.
then this afternoon i went to pick up Ito-san. another hard core surfer that dreams surfing. we paddled out at 2pm, and paddled in after 6pm. the waves were so perfect that it was very hard to come in. a lot of rides, a lot of waves, and even a local vs. local fight. no, not yelling fight, punching fight. one surfer dropped in on another surfer and both of them were punching each others face in the water. no, it’s not stupid, it’s part of surfing. a part of surfing that normal people can’t comprehend too. Ito-san was freaking out but i told him that as long as he is on the side of me, he’s safe. but imagine surfing in hawaii for the first time and and seeing a big fight right in the lineup? he must have been shocked! haha. anyway, was stoked for Ito-san to catch so many good waves!!!
if you look at me in the photos, you can see how black i am. the waves and weather have been so perfect ever since i got back to hawaii and i’m not letting anything go to waste. i’m totally burnt and can’t get any darker than i already am. going to put some aloe on my body, sleep, wake up tomorrow, and do the same thing over. surf your dream!
