for those of you who don’t know, i’m allergic to raw shrimp heads. if i eat it, i get sick. my stomach turns angry and hurts more than a 10′ pipeline wave landing on my head. but at the same time, i love to eat shrimp heads so i eat it anyway. just a few hours before i boarded my flight back to hawaii, i ate a shrimp head. as soon as i got on the airplane, i felt it. omg, i was in pain! feeling dizzy, sore stomach, head ache, and felt like throwing up. so i payed the price!!! but the good thing is: my body flushed out every single thing that could possible come out. and i lost the 10lbs i gained with Toda-san. will i eat another raw shrimp head again? probably. but never again before i board an airplane.
have my camera with me a lot so when friends are passing by, i just take a snap. here is rockpiles local Phillip with the big bottom turn on a 11’0. big man, big board.
Yuko-chan’s been surfing really good recently. lot’s of drive and lot’s of smiles!
happy to see Eri-chan enjoying her hawaiian lifestyle! live hawaii.
been teaching this teenager how to surf and shoot at the same time. then someday maybe she can give people photos and make them happy. that would be cool!
POI to hawaiians is like how rice is to japanese. i love both!
i finally found the solution for perfect ball ice! can’t wait to sip on some nice whisky!
when the waves get big, sometimes you come up and breath foam. going up to your nose is normal in hawaii. but in puerto escondido, i remember the foam going way over my head wave after wave. i thought i was going to die! thank goodness i didn’t panic. i will never forget that day.
