had an awesome day with this kid today. Kai-san is from fukushima and is a 23 year old college student attending the Tokyo University of Science. his hometown and house was only 4km away from the fukushima nuclear plant. things have changed ever since as he will probably never ever get to return home. but he’s determined to graduate from college next year and return back to fukushima to work. it was his first surf session today and i could tell he was nervous.
but after a few tries, he got the basics down and surfed good all day long. we surfed for so long this morning and i couldn’t believe how much energy this kid had.
if you surf with me, it’s like boot camp so we tend to get hungry. Kai-san wanted to eat steak so i took him to eat the biggest steak lunch on the island.
i ate the daily special “oxtail stew.” so good!
then killed some time checking out the most famous tree in hawaii. pretty huge!
then we went for round 2. the waves were perfect all day long again. some head high sets and i got Kai-san into a few. first time surfer catching head high waves? haha. after that, we ate some sweet shave ice, and i bet he’s sleeping pretty good right now. such a good kid!
oh, we also went to stop by the university of hawaii too. as we were leaving, we saw this girl flying down the hill with her skateboard. she was wearing a dress, shoes, and a backpack. so cool!
then as we were passing by, she threw us a shaka! haha. what a cool chick! i bet you she surfs. gosh, i love hawaii!!!
