
Takei-san getting ready for the morning session.

this is a really good bottom turn. knees are bent and his eyes looking where he wants to go.

Ito-san evening 4 hour marathon surf session.

good lighting, and pretty big wave!

this is a duck dive in hawaii. and japanese call it dolphin. feels so good!

6.5 hours surfing brings happiness, and sunburn. haha. i’m so burnt!!!

thank you Ito-san for the green tea snack! i can’t wait to try it!

hey Salina, you surfed so good the other day! score!
looked at my schedule just now and it’s looking like i’ll be surfing at least twice a day until september 18th. then i’m jumping on an airplane. in fact, i’ll be jumping on 4 airplanes and going very far and very deep. then once i get on the boat, i’ll be in heaven for 12 days. i can’t wait!


