Garlic Pig, Doctor, Aholehole, and Junk Mail….

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early morning pig hunters on the north shore…

i had to go to the doctor the other day to get a physical for my surf instructor blue card. everything passed! thank goodness….

brandon called me to ask if i wanted a’holehole. of course!! i picked it up, i scaled it, i cleaned it, i garlic salted it, i cornstarched it, and i fried it. it was awesome!!! this is the cornstarch step which is waiting for the hot oil….

i had a great day with yuki-san yesterday. we surfed, we talked, we laughed, we ate, and we laughed all day long. funny guy with a great personality. hey yuki-san, thanks for yesterday, and i’m sorry for not responding to your email you sent me 2 years ago. i swear i didn’t get it and i’m glad we finally got to meet. safe surfing in japan and keep on making people laugh. it’s a treasure….
**last, speaking about emails. first, if i get an email, i respond. if i don’t, that means i didn’t get it. lots of email somehow get filtered into my junk folder and i still don’t know why. then my junk folder automatically gets deleted every 3 days to prevent my computer from crashing. i like getting emails from everybody and appreciate the support all these years. if you haven’t had a reply from me, please don’t give up. i’ll get back to you and if it ends up in my junk folder, i try to go in and look for it but it sometimes gets lost in the 600 or so junk mails i get daily. gomenasai…. and yuki-san, sorry again….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide