waking up early in the morning and jumping into the ocean before sunrise is amazing. it’s just you, friends, and the ocean! i can’t wait till the next dawn patrol.
i don’t care what i’m riding anymore. as long as i’m riding a wave, i’m a happy surfer!
i went to check diamond head this morning and 2 birds came to check out the waves with me. cool love birds.
had a wonderful day 2 with the Iwata-san family. it’s their 7th time here and i’m stoked to take them to places they’ve seen for the first time. this view to me is the best view in the whole world!
we surfed in the morning and everybody surfed much much better than yesterday. tomorrow will be day 3 and i’m sure things will only get better and better. i’m very happy to meet this very wonderful energetic surfer family.
Noriko-san paddling out yesterday following a baby turtle. so cool!
thank you to the Iwata-san family for the treats from japan. itadakimasu!
