The Dream Team: Long Walk to Freedom!

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had a wonderful time with this wonderful crew. want to thank the staff and crew on The Dream, and also want to thank my family of friends. now we are much closer and we built relationships that can’t be broken. To: Kimura-san, Toda-san, Takami-san, Kyle, Cathy, Kekoa, Al, Travis, Tiare, Maki, James, and Matsu, i will never forget all the precious memories we had. I love all you guys!!!
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on any trip, i just wait and wait for a barrel. it’s always been my dream to be in the barrel as much as possible. all that barrel time made me a very happy person. this is treasure island. a perfect right hander with 3 barrel sections. what an amazing wave. photo by Ryan Robson.
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i was walking along this long white sandy beach. a wave broke on the shore and came up to my feet. i look down and see something. i pick it up and was amazed to see it was a baby nautilus shell! OMG! a Treasure from Treasure Island! so happy!
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super typhoon 18 hit japan hard. Toda-san and Takami-san got home safely the night before, and woke up to this. crazy!
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mother nature never stops. from volcanos, to typhoons, to tsunamis. please enjoy every precious moment of your life.
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i watched this movie on the way home from malaysia. it was amazing! i passed by Robben Island 15 years ago when i was in south africa. i didn’t know who Nelson Mandela was back then, but i do now. watch it and learn what this amazing man did for his people.
Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom
at the end of the movie, here was Mandela’s words. it was very touching.
No one is born hating another person.
People learn to hate.
They can be taught to love.
For love comes more naturally to the human heart.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide