Obama Sandy Beach?

264

hot-weather
ok, i came back to hawaii and expected it to start getting cold as we near winter. it’s already october and the temperature and water should be getting cooler. i was wrong. it is hotter than before i left. and it is hotter than summer. the month of september was the hottest month since the 1940’s. and this month of october will surely break more records. perfect waves on the south and north shores as our endless summer continues. i’m so happy!
sandy-beach-park
ok, some government officials want to rename “Sandy Beach” after our president. “President Obama Sandy Beach?” are you kidding me? just because President Obama bodysurfed there before, they want to rename the beach after him? the reasoning is to create more tourism. i’m totally against that! i grew up at Sandy Beach and it’s one of the only untouched stretch of beach left on this island. leave the beach and leave the name as it is. go rename Waikiki after the president, not Sandy’s.
IMG_0270
had a great time with Naganuma-san this morning. he surfed much better than last year and i was stoked to surf such perfect waves with him this morning. uncrowded and super glassy!
IMG_0314
then we had Oxtail Soup and the famous Asahi Grill. thank you Mr. and Mrs. Naganuma for spending a wonderful morning with me. take care and see you again next year!
IMG_0308
i was craving oxtail soup and this bowl made my stomach very happy.
IMG_0318
then in the afternoon, it was time to take care of my baby. before i clean the bottom of the boat, it was recommended to me that i take her out to the ocean and go full speed ahead. so if you seen a beautiful white boat called “Mayuki” speeding around outside waikiki this afternoon, that was me. then i threw out the anchor and surfed Bowls again. what an awesome surf day! feels good to be back in the ocean of paradise!
IMG_0324
then went to TasteTea for a milk tea to cool me down.
IMG_0329
and yeah, the beautiful sunset to end the beautiful day. going to eat some sukiyaki, take a shower, and sleep early like a baby. tomorrow is another long day in the ocean. i can’t wait! goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide