i had a rare day off today. i told myself last night, “hey, stay home, relax, and stay out of the hot sun before you get so dark that nobody can see you.” i check the waves and it was too good to let it pass by. i drive to the beach, surf for 2 hours, caught some amazing waves, and had a great time with my local friends. i can’t stay out of the water. i love this endless summer!
local surfer/friend Reid getting a good barrel!
yesterday was awesome. check out Saito-san on a pretty good size wave. usually the waves are small in october on the south shore, but this year is different.
with every surfer that comes to hawaii, i do my best to guide them on a path on improvement. it starts on the beach, then continues after every wave ridden. i saw Saito-san get better and better and better. nice bottom turn dude.
see you again tomorrow Saito-san! the waves will be good again you lucky guy!
if you surf better and better, your life will get better and better. only a surfer knows that feeling.
Watanabe-san hasn’t surfed for a while. the waves were pretty big yesterday in the evening and he just charged! super excited and super stoked. great balance, and great style.
see you again tomorrow Watanabe-san. we go big again!
check out the weather forecast. i went to costco today and i couldn’t believe how many people were buying all the water again. it was crazy panic! here is my advice: fill up containers with water from your faucet. it’s perfectly drinkable. and if you do buy water, please don’t go back and return it if you don’t need it. it’s not good for businesses. and most of all, please don’t panic. panic is not good for our island lifestyle. stay calm.
