ok, yet another hurricane heading straight for oahu. this one is going to hit us full on! the government already cancelled schools, events, and are preparing for some high winds and heavy rain. most people will be indoors, some surfers will be outdoors. no matter which way the winds are blowing, somewhere is straight off shore. as of now, nobody knows where will be good. but come saturday morning when i wake up, i’ll know where to go. my guess for now is 10′ north shore with super strong off shore winds. that means, big barrels!
we get a hurricane every 23 years or so. this rare year, it’s the 2nd one. can you believe japan gets twenty something typhoons a year? yes, each year japan gets pounded and pounded by typhoons. it’s just a part of daily life in japan. but for us, it’s panic city!
surfing with Abe-san is always fun. just a super stoked surfer in great shape. check out this beautiful wave at bowls rights! it feels good just looking at this photo imagining how it feels taking the drop and riding towards diamond head.
yes, riding towards diamond head. only in hawaii.
thank you Abe-san for the great surfing and great conversations. keep on surfing!
when i first started going on boat trips back in the early 1990’s, i was the only diver. so it would be my responsibility to catch our crew some fresh fish. while the boys would be surfing in the evenings, i’d be sent out on the dingy with orders of sashimi. yes, i missed some amazing sunset surf sessions. but now, things have changed. i go on boat trips with awesome divers. so while they are out catching the nights sashimi, i’m surfing into the sunset. haha. now i know how it feels to surf awesome waves, come back to the boat, open up a bintang beer, sit down on the dinner table, and get served fresh sashimi from fish that have been swimming in the ocean a few hours earlier. i loved it! thanks Kekoa, Travis, Kyle, Cathy, and Al for the sashimi, poke, and all the preparations.
and thank you Toda-san, Takami-san, Kyle, and Matsu for capturing so many moments on video and stills. i really got to enjoy this trip and realize how photos like this can make people happy. i’m super happy and i’m sure our whole crew are too. nice jump Tiare. Teremakasih!
